From the Alps to the Albanian Riviera
Have you ever wondered what happens to Les Gets once the winter season wraps up?
After the final skiers leave at the end of April, our mountain village takes a well-earned breath. The bustling winter energy gives way to a calm and quiet few weeks. With just a couple of local spots open, it is the perfect time for those of us who live and work in the valley to reset, recharge and head off on our own adventures.
Operating a catered chalet across the busy winter months takes a lot of energy, and we pride ourselves on working straight through from November to April without a day off. We absolutely love this lifestyle; we’ve been living the alpine life since 1994, so we are practically the dinosaurs of the valley now! But to keep our energy high for the upcoming summer guests, a proper interseason break is essential.
So, while many of our neighbours head off to find a quiet beach, Rob and I pack our panniers. We love cycle touring, no strict agendas, no timelines, just us and our bikes. Over the years, we’ve cycled the coast of Spain and Portugal, tackled the Camino de Santiago, ridden from Les Gets to Malaga, and explored Tuscany, Puglia, Greece and Turkey.
This May, we decided on a destination that raised a few eyebrows: Albania.
The art of packing light
Cycle touring means carrying everything you need for a month on the back of your bike. It sounds daunting, but a handy insider trick is that what you need for three days is exactly the same as what you need for four weeks.
My strict packing list includes:
- Two sets of cycling kit (shorts, tops, socks and a sweat scarf)
- One set of evening clothes (a simple dress or a skirt and blouse)
- Swimwear and a lightweight travel towel
- One pair of flip-flops for both the beach and evenings
- A warm down jacket, a windstopper and a wet-weather poncho
- Minimal toiletries, sun cream and a laptop with chargers
- A paper map of the country (essential if your phone electronics fail!)
Rob carries the heavy tools in case we can’t find a local bike shop, and we always travel with a spare inner tube and tyre. Packed down, it fits into two small pannier bags.
First impressions and coastal paths
To get there, we drove down to Bari in southern Italy, left our car at a brilliant agriturismo we discovered last year, and caught the 10-hour overnight ferry to the Albanian port city of Durrës.
Stepping off the ferry into the bustling port terminal, our first task was buying a local data SIM card for 30 euros. Because Albania is outside the EU, using our standard phones for route planning and booking accommodation would have cost a small fortune otherwise. Best 30 euros we spent all trip!
We pedalled out into the lively city traffic and immediately found a fantastic cycle path that guided us along a 20km stretch of beach. The sun was shining, the Ionian Sea was a clear turquoise and we stopped for a quick breakfast of coffee and pastries. At just four euros for the two of us, we knew we were going to enjoy the local prices.
Our first few days were spent meandering along the coast, enjoying smart beach hotels for 50 euros a night and incredible, fresh seafood dinners for under 30 euros.
Moving inland to ancient towns
After a few days on the coast, we turned our handlebars inland towards Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its Ottoman architecture and hillsides stacked with overlapping windows.
To avoid the busy dual carriageways, we navigated quiet countryside routes lined with green fields and vegetable plots, with snow-capped mountains framing the distance. Passing through rural villages, we caught fascinating glimpses of traditional life, women dressed in black working the hayfields with pitchforks while the men and older generation gathered outside local coffee shops to chat.
From Berat, we pushed further into the mountains, riding along the edge of the spectacular Osumi Canyon. We spent an entire day riding off-road, crossing shallow rivers and passing isolated lakes. It felt really remote and peaceful. Our only company was a wonderful elderly lady who served us fresh coffee from her tiny home in the middle of nowhere.
We eventually hit tarmac again and stopped for the night in the quiet town of Këlcyrë, before cycling on to Gjirokastër near the Greek border. Another UNESCO site, Gjirokastër greeted us with a dramatic mountain storm. After drying off at a local hotel, we spent the afternoon exploring the historic castle and a vast underground Cold War bunker built to house hundreds of people.
Conquering the Llogara Pass
As the weather cleared, we climbed back through the mountains and dropped down to Sarandë on the Albanian Riviera. Cycling coastal paths with the island of Corfu sitting so close you could almost swim to it, we arrived at Ksamil. Part of the Butrint National Park, this area is famous for its white sandy beaches and small offshore islands. We took a day off the bikes here to wander through ancient Roman baths and a 3rd-century amphitheatre, soaking up layers of Greek, Roman and Ottoman history.
The journey back north towards Durrës was a cyclist’s dream. The coastal roads were quiet, the small hillside villages were charming and the sea views went on for miles. We stopped in Himarë, a pretty town with clear waters, where we took a boat trip to explore hidden sea caves.
The final big challenge of the trip was the infamous Llogara Pass. This legendary climb winds its way from sea level up to 1,027 metres through sharp hairpin bends. With towering peaks above us and the Riviera stretching out below, it was an exhilarating climb. At the summit, we rewarded ourselves with a hearty lunch at an alpine-style restaurant that felt remarkably like home.
A capital finale
Before catching our return ferry from Durrës, we took a short taxi ride into Tirana, the capital city. Watching the chaotic, fast-paced city traffic from the safety of a cab, we were incredibly glad we hadn’t tried to cycle in!
We booked a local walking tour of the city, which was fascinating. It completely reshaped our understanding of the country’s complex history, the legacy of the Cold War and the optimism of the younger generation who are working hard to put their country on the map. Today, Albania is experiencing a massive tourism boom and rapid development, yet the countryside remains beautifully traditional, simple and grounded.
Now, we are back in sunny, beautiful Les Gets and our focus is on the upcoming summer season. The chalet garden is looking wonderful, the terrace is ready and we are so excited to welcome our summer guests.
If you fancy a summer alpine holiday filled with outdoor adventure, great food and plenty of travel stories around the dinner table, drop me an email to plan.
Summer Activities in Les Gets
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